Tag Archives: beer

Budapest in 4 days

budapestOne of Europe’s most delightful, lively and enjoyable cities, with a youthful atmosphere and intense nightlife that makes Budapest more and more appreciated among European youth and international travellers.

Budapest (by me named shortly Bp) is easy to be reached, via air, as one of the most famous low-cost company is based in Hungary. From airport, public bus 200E is running every 8-15 minutes to terminal station of metro M3 ‘Kőbánya-Kispest. From there catch metro train to the centre. Single bus tickets are available in airport terminals for around HUF 350 at the newspaper vendors, or can be purchased from the driver for HUF 400. Another 350 HUF ticket is needed to use the metro service. There is a transfer ticket for 490 HUF which may be used all the way from the airport to the city center, but are not sold in either by the machines nor by the kiosks at the airport. Do not accept offers from taxi drivers waiting (illegally) inside or near the exit of the terminal.

Three direct EC trains go to/from Prague (7 hours). Online tickets are much more cheaper than normal tickets (the price begins at €19), but you should buy them at least 3 days in advance. If e-tickets are sold out or you have to buy a ticket immediately before departure, buy a (domestic) ticket Prague-Kúty Gr. (the CZ/SK border point) and international tickets Kúty Gr.-Štúrovo and Štúrovo-Budapest. This combination costs about 65% of the direct ticket. For the two international tickets you can get RailPlus discount and return ticket discount.

From/to Prague Student Agency autobus operates twice a day from a bus stop located at Nepliget Metro station (note: this bus doesn’t start from Nepliget bus station, is on the other side of the bridge nearby a small bar and at beginning of the park).

szofiBudapest has been the meeting point for a short trip with a friend from Venezuela, she has never been to Europe, other than in Spain. We met at Nyugati railway station.

From there we walk to the Zsofi house, a hostel that I booked previously.

This is a typical big apartment turned into an hostel, the ones I prefer, with a proprietary, Zsofi, who works there, meets her guests, advises them, unlike the big chain hostels and party hostels, where there is a owner (almost never present in the building), a manager (not usually interacting with customers) and the staff, the only ones who work face to face with guests.

For me, I said, it makes a difference, I like to meet the owner, you appreciate much more the place where you get to spend some time with the person who run it. In fact, on our first night, after shopping at a nearby supermarket, we had dinner along with other people in the common room, with a nice atmosphere, a girl started to play the guitar and sing, after a while other improvised instruments came out to accompany the performance, a perfect and spontaneous jam sessions!

If the music has helped to break the ice, another inescapable element in hostel life appeared, to begin the socialization part, mister alcohol.

One of the boys, a Hungarian, proudly offered us the Palinka, a strong liqueur, similar to italian grappa. It started the presentations and brief story of each of us, besides me, the Neapolitan of the situation, my friend from Venezuela, there are two Swiss, a Japanese, a Brazilian and 3 Hungarians. After a few drinks and chat, I decided to go out for a little visit to the city center.

parlamentIn a few minutes we arrived at the bridge of Margaret island, turning to the left, towards the center, passing by the beautiful parliament building, lit with a pleasant color appearance. We are on the bank of the Danube called Pest side, while the opposite bank, identifies the called part of Buda, where you will find the fisherman bastions and the royal palace (called by many the castle, by mistake). The Danube, Duna in Hungarian, makes us a good company, during this night walk.

The next morning is dedicated to contact the hostels for the next destinations of my tour. In summer is recommended to book accommodation and transportion, in advance, given the high number of tourists and travelers. Book directly by contacting the hostel that you like, via email or telephone. You could ask for a small discount.

In the afternoon we took a walking tour of the city, starting from the Heroes’ Square, the Varosliget park, really beautiful, with a nice little castle, the park has facilities for sports and benches where a couple of pairs of gentlemen were playing chess. From this you can see the difference in culture between this part of Europe and the west.

We kept walking toward Oktogon, the popular square, a meeting place for many, where you can admire the oldest underground metro in continental Europe, later we passed ​the Opera with its fashion shops, then the huge basilica of St. Stephen and reached Elizabeth square, where historically the young people meet to drink, listen to or play music, skateboarding etc etc

The atmosphere is so pleasant that we stoped to rest and do a little aperitif with beer and chips bought at the nearby convenience store. After a while, we took the direction of the famous Chain Bridge, crossing it to reach Buda part (the name should be of Slavic root, Voda, water). After such long walk our legs claimed a proper rest!

freewalkingSaturday is dedcated to the free walking tour, in spanish for my friend, in english for me.

The guide, Anita, puts a lot of passion in her job, telling stories and info about BP.

Starting from the Basilica we reached the upper part of the city, at Buda side, in about 3 hours, all spent pleasantly.

At the end of the walking tour, we saluted the good guide, just by paying a tip, completely voluntary and deserved after all. With two other guys met during the tour, a Brazilian and a Spanish, we decided to get something to eat in the center.

We reached the Kiraly Street, where many restaurants and bistros are based. We choose one famous among tourists and it is revealed as such, for tourists. Quality of food really low, beer that tastes like water. If you want to spend little but eat badly, go to Frici Papa

In order not to spoil the day I propose to visit Szimpla, one of the first ruins pub, very famous and popoular in BP, almost like a monument and landscape. It consists in a  pub established in a ruined building, adapted in a unique interior style. Something to see!

szimplaThe Szimpla is considered one of the most beautiful club/pub in the world, for its alternative style. We stoped to enjoy a beer in the garden. Unfortunately drinking a good beer,i n  BP is not easy, being the city very touristy and paying a little, I found the quality very low, at least for me. However, the place is worth a visit, as are the most famous monuments and attractions of the city.

In the evening, a friend who lives in Bp, contacts me to tell me that there will be a meeting in the square Elizabet. I invited other people in the hostel, an Indian girl who lives in London and two German girls. We all went out together.

In the evening has an effect even better than during the day, lights and lots of people, really great atmosphere. Start the nightlife in this place, is my suggestion.

On Sunday my friend‘s dedicated the day to relax, going to one of the famous spas, BP has dozens of thermal bath, inherited from the Ottoman culture, which ruled here for about 150 years. She later told me that the different saunas are great but lack a little bit of information, the food in the various restaurants were very low quality, but for about 15 euro you have a chance to spend a really relaxing day.

I took a relaxing stroll downtown, an afternoon nap, a chat with the two German girls, in their European tour in their backpack.

sportbpIn the evening I went to the Elisabeth island, where it was played the water polo final between Hungary, who prevously beated italy in the semifinals, and Serbia. I could hear many fans cheering and screaming, as I did not have the ticket I watched the match at a bar, along with many other Hungarians and Srbs fans, they later on celebrated the victory of the European Championship.

The next day, we had to get ready to get back on our next destination.

We went for a short walk in the centre, where I admired a wonderful murales, about the historical winning match of Hungary, at Wembley stadium, in 1953.

Our 4 days in Budapest were soon going to end, anyway, we had a very good time!






Summertime in Brno

brnoThis page is in both english unionjack and italian version (with more pictures).

Questa pagina ha anche una versione italiana italy la trovi dopo il racconto in inglese

To be honest, the first time I arrived in Brno, about 10 years ago, I found the city ugly, gray, with sad-faced people. I was the typical Italian- western europe boy, first-hand experience with that part of Europe which we used to call, communist’. From that day, I continued to visit the city, living in there for almost 5 years. I have seen it changing for the better and now I consider it my second city.

The best time to visit Brno is certainly from late spring until Christmas, to enjoy the beautiful atmosphere of the Christmas markets and hot drinks in the square, Namesti Svobodi.

However, with the arrival of summer Brno becomes a really nice place to visit, here are some of my suggestions on what to see and where to go:

brnolake Prehrada.

It ‘s the reservoir, those who live here consider it ‘the seaof Brno, in nice days coming here for a hike is really very pleasant.

From the center you can get there by taking tram no. 1, with an ordinary ticket by 60 minutes.

The journey is about 30 minutes.

Once you arrive at the bus stop prehrada‘, follow the people, within a few hundred meters, you will find the ferries-port (to visit the lake with by boat, until the beautiful Veveri castle) and you can start your walking tour, keeping to the right side of the lake. There are nice places to sunbathe and even a nudist beach

kravighoraOutdoor Swimming Pools of Kravi hora and Riviera.

These are the two outdoor swimming pools in Brno, both very beautiful and popular among locals.

Kravi hora is located on a hill overlooking the city, is reached by tram nr. 4, from the center in about 15 minutes. The price for 5 hours is 70 czk (less than 3 E), for the entire day, 100 czk. Lockers and changing rooms are available. Bar and resale of snacks and fast food at reasonable prices are nearby the entrance.

Riviera, is located a little outside the city center, with tram no. 1 stop at Pisarky, you can take the bus nr. 44 or walk for about 10 minutes. The cost of the ticket is 110 czk, for the whole day. Even here there are bars and fast food, beach volleyball courts and lots of green space available.

hostelmitte  -Hostel Mitte

If you’re going to spend in Brno few days to enjoy the best the city, I can reccomend to stay at Hostel Mitte.

It is located in a historic building just few steps from the main square, Namesti Svobodi and from the train station, in the city center. Restaurants, bars and clubs are all within a few minutes walk away.

In the morning a delicious breakfast is included in the price.

The rooms are spacious, bright and furnished with simplicity together with good taste.

The staff is always available for any kind of information about Brno

2013-11-08 13.21.04Beer and food

Drinking excellent beer and eating good czech food, in Brno is simple.

With the arrival of summer, many bars and restaurants have outdoor terraces where you can enjoy the day while drinking a fresh Czech beer and / or eat something traditional. I suggest to drink beer from small local breweries, preferring them to international brands beers, the satisfaction of a pure taste is priceless.

In the heart of the city, micro brewery Pegas has some great beers.
To eat, from 11 to 14 almost every restaurant offers a menu of the day denni menu‘ for less than 4E

For dinner I suggest you to order Kachna, Cerveni Zeli‘, roast duck with red cabbage boiled and sliced ​​potato gnocchi, or the Czech version of the Gulas, a kind of very tasty stew.

nightlifeNightlife and fun

Brno has an intense nightlife, being a university city, even in the weekdays the clubs are full of young people.
In the center you can find the best pubs and clubs.

The only unpleasent note, for my taste, is that is allowed to smoke inside any public place, restaurant, bar or nightclub, which after a couple of hours spent indoors makes your clothes impregnated with the smell of cigarettes. Disgusting!

If you can, prefer a free of smoke place, Cafe Falk or Bar Ktery Neexistuje, for example.
In the evenings, Jakubské square, a few meters from the main square, is the place where many young people gather to drink while sitting outside, a good way to meet new people and socialize.  If you have friends in Brno, the best place where having fun is at the top of the beautiful Spilberk castle hill. Get a wine bottle and enjoy the stunning view from there.


Brno offers several events to spend a nice time.

One of these is called Ignis Brunensis, a festival of fireworks, which is held every year for almost the entire month of June, in different locations.

In the main square, namesti Svobodi, often there are markets with food and drink, music and other entertainment.

The night of the museums, usually in May, offers the opportunity to visit, for free and all night, the city’s museums, Brno is populated by people. Very nice!

The Grand prix, racing bike, filled with centaurs, usually males and horny, the city. In those days people who live there abandon the the city to the ‘hordes of barbarians’… 🙂


———————————– italy ——————————-

Devo essere sincero, la prima volta che arrivai a Brno, circa 10 anni fa, la trovai molto brutta, grigia, gente dalla faccia triste. Ero il tipico ragazzo italiano, occidentale alla prima esperienza con quella parte di Europa che chiamavamo ‘comunista’. Da quel lontano giorno, ho continuato a visitare la citta’, vivendoci, in totale per quasi 5 anni. L’ho vista cambiare, in meglio ed ora la considero la mia seconda citta’.

Il periodo migliore per visitare Brno e’ sicuramente dalla primavera inoltrata alle feste di Natale, per godersi della bella atmosfera natalizia dei mercatini e delle bevande calde in piazza, Svobodi Namesti.

Comunque con l’arrivo della bella stagione Brno diventa veramente una bella meta da visitare, ecco qualche mio suggerimento su cosa vedere e dove andare:

prehradaPrehrada. E’ il bacino artificiale, chi vive qui lo considera ‘il mare’ di Brno. Nelle giornate belle una passeggiata qui e’ veramente molto piacevole. Dal centro ci si arriva prendendo il tram nr. 1, con un biglietto ordinario da 60 minuti.

Il tragitto e’ di circa 30 minuti. Una volta arrivati alla fermata ‘prehrada’, seguite la gente, sulla sinistra a pochi centinaia di metri, troverete il porticciolo per i traghetti (si puo’ anche fare il giro del lago con l’imbarcazione) e potrete iniziare il vostro giro a piedi, tenendo la destra.

E’ possibile completare l’intero giro del bacino artificiale, ma, ad essere sincero, sarebbe davvero lungo, a piedi, mentre in bici cred sia possibile farlo in giornata. Ci sono bei posti dove prendere il sole e perfino una spiaggia per nudisti …

riviera-Piscine all’aperto di Kravi hora e Riviera.

Si tratta delle due piscine all’aperto di Brno. Entrambe molto belle e frequentate.

Kravi hora si trova sulla collina che domina la citta’, si raggiunge con il tram nr. 4, dal centro, in 15 minuti circa. L’ingresso per 5 ore e’ di 70 czk (meno di 3 E), per l’intera giornata di 100 czk. Armadietti e spogliatoi sono gratuiti. Bar e rivendita di snack a prezzi contenuti.

Riviera, si trova un poco fuori dal centro, con il tram nr. 1 scendendo a Pisarky, si puo’ prendere il bus nr. 44 oppure a piedi per circa 10 minuti. Il costo del biglietto e’ di 110 czk, tutto il giorno. Anche qui ci sono bar e fast food, campi da beach volley e tanto spazio verde a disposizione.

hostelmitte-Hostel Mitte

Se state a Brno qualche giorno, per godervi al meglio la citta’ la soluzione che consigio e’ quella di stare al Hostel Mitte.

Si trova in un edificio storico a pochi passi dalla piazza principale,Svobodi Namesti e dalla stazione dei treni, in pieno centro. Ristoranti, bar e clubs sono tutti raggiungibili in pochi minuti a piedi.

Al mattino una deliziosa colazione e’ inclusa nel prezzo.

Le camere sono spaziose, luminose e arredate con semplicita’ ma ottimo gusto.

Lo staff e’ sempre a disposizione per ogni tipo di informazione su Brno

beer-Birra e cibo

Bere birra ottima e mangiare buon cibo ceco e’ semplice.

Con l’arrivo della bella stagione moltissimi locali aggiungono terrazze all’aperto dove si puo’ gustare la giornata mentre si sorseggia una fresca birra ceca e/o si mangia qualcosa di tradizionale.

Consiglio di bere birre di piccoli birrifici, preferendole alle birre con brand internazionali, la soddisfazione di un gusto puro non ha paragoni.

In pieno centro il micro birrificio Pegas ha delle ottime birre.

Per il mangiare, dalle 11 alle 14 quasi ogni ristorante offre il menu del giorno ‘denni menu’ a meno di 4E

Fuori da questi orari, consiglio di ordinare ‘Kachna, cerveni zeli’, anatra arrosto con crauti rossi bolliti e fette gnocchi di patate, oppure la versione ceca del Gulas, una specie di spezzatino molto saporito


Brno ha una vita notturna intensa, essendo una citta’ universitaria, anche nei giorni della settimana i locali sono pieni di giovani.

Nel centro si raccolgono i pub ed i clubs migliori.

Unica nota stonata, per i miei gusti, e’ che si puo’ fumare in ogni locale pubblico, ristorante, bar o discoteca, il che dopo un paio di ore trascorse al chiuso rende i vestiti impregnati di puzza di sigarette. Disgustoso!

Se si riesce, preferisci un locale poco fumoso, il Cafe Falk o il Bar Ktery Neexistuje, ad esempio.

Nelle serate gradevoli, nella piazza Jakubske, a pochi metri dalla piazza principale, molti giovani bevono i loro drink stando seduti all’aperto, un buon modo per conoscere persone nuove e socializzare.


Brno offre diversi eventi pr poter trascorrere del tempo piacevole.

Uno di questi si chiama Ignis Brunensis, un festival di fuochi di artificio, che si tiene ogni anno, in quasi tutto il mese di giugno, in diverse location.

Nella piazza principale, Svobodi namesti, spesso ci sono mercatini con cibo e bevande, musica e altri intrattenimenti.

La notte dei musei, di solito a Maggio, offre la possibilita’ di visitare gratuitamente e per tutta la notte, i musei cittadini, Brno si popola di gente. Bellissima!

Il Gran prix, la corsa di moto, riempie di centauri, di solito maschi e arrapati, la citta’. In quei giorni chi ci abita fugge via, abbandonandola alle orde di barbari, chissa perche’ …



Gdansk (part two)

gdanskmostri This page is in both english unionjack and italian version (with more pictures).


Questa pagina ha anche una versione italiana italy la trovi dopo il racconto in inglese


Continuing from here.

Where was I?

Ah yes, the italian dinner (badly managed) and the Polish one (well managed). After a couple of relaxing days spent at the beach, it was time to explore the area a little more. By walking I reached Sopot, the second of the three cities.

sopotFrom the Olive hostel could be about 4/5 km, however it is a beautiful walk, beside the beach, there is’ a pedestrian and bicycle path, very nice, you can admire beautiful holiday homes, restaurants, camping sites, all under a fresh vegetation for most of the entire path.

Once in Sopot I was a little disappointed, too touristy and plastic’ location. Even to enter the famous pier you have to pay, I leave it to the tourists this privilege, then I headed to the center, to see the famous house built with the unique drunken’ effect , but again another disappointment here, the trees at the front impede the full view, moreover the signs of the bar and restaurants chains are too invasive. I’ve had enough of Sopot and its high-class’ tourism, with many Germans and Scandinavians, in addition to the rich Polish, coming here. Better my working class favorite beach.

gdanskmilkbarThe whole way there by the seashore is a nice walk. For lunch I decided to try the famous milk bar’ Kmar, located a few hundred meters from the Olive hostel where I am staying. I knew that the only spoken language there was Polish, however I was counting on my previous experiences in many other bar mlekzny, so I got in, stay in line, take my tray and wait to order what I know. When the lady came to serve me I replied what I familiar within the Polish food specialties, unfortunately, to my surprise, the lady told me something, in Polish, I did not expect that our conversation would continue, just guessing I made a wrong order, I tried to change it, but the lady insisted to tell me something, pointing to the end the row. Fortunately, a young Polish man came to soccur me, explaining, in English, that I could order at pay desk, she was there to take only orders for soups. Good to know! Once paid I had to wait for the food to get ready and announced, to tell the truth, it took a way too much time, I was not the only one to wait for a long time. Anyway, I always recommend the milk bar, they are good and super cheap, but having someone who speaks Polish is almost necessary.

gdansknightOnce in the hostel I met a guy, newer, just arrived, he told me his sad adventure on the overnight train from Wroclaw, while he was sleeping, someone stole his backpack with laptop and money. He came to Gdansk to work as a lighting technician, for concerts, events and evenings, as the Baltic coast in summer has a lot to offer. I decide to invite him to drink a beer in the evening. Let’s go to Gdansk! He leads me, first to see a small hill behind the town, from where you can see all the city and the night lights.

Then we went to a pub owned by a friend of him, where you can find great beers, not the usual commercial ones. The Palupka. In the same street where this pub is located, there are different bars, in one a band was playing jazz, so we took a sit outside, on the sidewalk, listening to nice music and get to know with a Polish guy who had the same idea, we started to exchange travel considerations about the cities we had seen and so on, sharing experiences. Always nice to meet someone who loves to travel.

After a couple of beers, I decided to return to the hostel, the next day I want to go for a little hike and I have to wake up early. The usual suburban train is always on duty, even at night, the tickets can be bought from the conductor, at the head coach of the train. My partner prefers to stay outside, I saw him again the next morning, getting back, completely drunk and with a disgusting stain on the back of the pants, but you know, the Poles drink a lot

oliwa catedralFor me it is time to see the cathedral in Oliwa district, at short walking distance from the hostel, inside it has one of the biggest pipe organs in Poland and Europe.

As usual, I do not enter the churches, my position is simple, I have no respect for such institution, so I do not enter into any religious building of any religion.

The cathedral is located in a beautiful park, too bad it has to be the day of sh.t, because while I was walking among the trees I felt something on my shoulder.

Yes, one of the many pigeons decided to leave me a memory of its existance …

I hate people like that feed them!!


gdanskroadoffreeIn the afternoon I meet a girl in Gdansk, contacted through couchsurfing site, Karolina, it makes me see the place where he lives, but lately has lived on the road, working on a cruise ship.

We had a nice time, telling ourselves something about our lifes and we spend a lovely afternoon, we sawe the area where solidarnosc and the protests against the Communist regime began, with Lech Walesa had his speech to the Polish workers and started his political career.

The Road of FREEDOM is an important sight of Gdansk, here all started.

We ended the evening in a quiet cafe, where we had a delicious apple pie. Later I continued to visit Gdansk, fascinated by the colors, the people around me, the bank of the river Motlawa, cobbled streets, beautiful palaces and the impressive Mariacka, the street with the amber shops.

heltrainThe next day I went to Hel! No, I’m not swearing, Hel is the name of a small village at the end of a strip of land a few kilometers from Gdansk, a narrow peninsula.

I went there by train, it is perfect for a day trip. From Gdansk to Gdynia, the third of the town, there you catch a regional (ICs costs too much and the journey takes only about ten minutes less), return ticket is less than 10 .

The train is full of people that go on vacation on this peninsula, it was raining and the view was not the best, but I could appreciate the journey, on the one side, the right, I could see the baltic sea, while on the left one a beautiful pine forest and then you can see the other side of the sea, all will be two hundred metres wide, unique and evocative as a place.

helIn HEL to the rain becomes more intense, I had time to visit the beach where they put a focarium, few stands for selling souvenirs and such, the marina, the port and the city centre, I liked the cosy houses, very typical. In one of them, turned into a restaurant, I stopped by to eat something warm and have a shelter from the infamous time. I’ve got the train back in a couple of hours, desist from doing any coast to coast hiking, it rain ‘cats and dogs’, too much for me and sometime I prefer to leave behind some outstanding experience, those are good excuses to return somewhere.

The train fills up quickly, the rain has advised many to end the visit. I still have a day to spend on the baltic sea, unfortunately the rain but the company seems to want me to do on Sunday afternoon, the sky opens up and gives way to a bright sun, I decided to go at the beach to spend the last hours of this beautiful tour in northern Poland . I think I will return hereThe next morning I get back on the road, towards …

gdanskbeach gdanskbeachtwo

gdansknubi gdanskfiori




Continua da qui.

Dove ero rimasto? Ah si, la cena italiana (riuscita male) e quella polacca (riuscita bene). Dopo un paio di giornate di relax in spiaggia, inizio a farmi venir voglia di esplorare un poco la zona. A piedi raggiungo Sopot, la seconda delle tre citta’. Dall’ostello saranno circa 4/5 km, che sono una bellissima passeggiata, fiancheggiando la spiaggia, c’e’ un percorso pedonale e ciclabile, molto bello, si ammirano belle case da villeggiatura, ristoranti, campeggi, il tutto sotto una fresca vegetazione per lunghi tratti.

sopotmoloUna volta a Sopot resto un poco deluso, troppo turistica e ‘plastificata’. Addirittura per accedere al famoso molo si deve pagare, lascio ai turisti pensionati questo privilegio, mi dirigo verso il centro, a vedere la famosa casa costruita con effetto ‘ubriacatura’, anche qui delusione, gli alberi davanti impediscono la visione completa, in piu’ le insegne delle catene di bar e ristoranti sono troppo invasive. Ne ho abbastanza di Sopot e del suo turismo di ‘alto bordo’, molti tedeschi e scandinavi, oltre ai polacchi ricchi, vengono qui.

Rientro alla mia spiaggia preferita, decidendo di farmela via battigia. A pranzo decido di provare il famoso ‘milk bar’ Kmar, che si trova a poche centinaia di metri dal Olive hostel dove alloggio. Sapevo che l’unica lingua parlata fosse il polacco, ma contavo nella mia esperienza in altri bar mlekzny, quindi mi sono messo in fila, ho preso il mio vassio e quando la signora mi ha chiesto cosa volevo ho risposto con il cibo polacco che conoscevo, purtroppo, per mia sorpresa, la signora mi ha detto qualcosa, in polacco, non mi aspettavo che la nostra conversazione continuasse e quindo non capivo cosa stesse succedendo, ho provato a cambiare ordinazione, ma la signora insiste a dirmi qualcosa, indicandomi la fine della fila. Per fortuna un giovane polacco mi ha dato una mano, spiegandomi, in inglese, che potevo ordinare alla cassa, li era solo per le zuppe. Quindi arrivo a pagare, ordino e aspetto seduto che preparino quanto ho chiesto, impiegano un poco, a dire la verita’, divento nervoso, scopro di non essere il solo ad attendere da tanto per quanto richiesto. In definitiva, consiglio sempre i milk bar, sono buoni e super economici, ma avere qualcuno che parli polacco a portata di mano e’ quasi necessario.

Una volta in ostello faccio conoscenza con un ragazzo appena arrivato, mi racconta la sua triste avventura, sul treno notturno da Wroclaw, mentre dormiva, gli hanno rubato lo zaino con il laptop ed i soldi. Era venuto a Gdansk per lavorare, come tecnico delle luci, a concerti, eventi e serate, visto che la costa baltica in estate ha moltissimo da offrire. Decido di invitarlo a bersi una birra, in serata. Andiamo a Gdansk, mi porta a vedere una piccola collina alle spalle della citta’, da dove si possono ammirare tutti i colori e le luci notturne.

gdanskviaPoi andiamo in un pub di un suo amico, dove si possono trovare ottime birre non commerciali. Il Palupka. Nella stessa strada ci sono diversi locali, in uno suonano jazz, ci fermiamo a sedere sul marciapiede ascoltando bella musica e facendo conoscenza con un polacco con il quale scambio considerazioni sui viaggi e sulle citta’ viste, mi racconta della sua esperienza a Napoli ed io gli dico cosa penso della Polonia. Sempre bello incontrare qualcuno che ama viaggiare.

Dopo un paio di birre, decido di rientrare in ostello, il giorno dopo voglio andare a fare una piccola escursione e devo svegliarmi presto, rientro in ostello con il solito treno metropolitano. Che e’ sempre in servizio, anche la notte, il biglietto si puo’ comprare dal capotreno, al vagone di testa del convoglio. Il mio compagno di ostello preferisce rimanere, lo rivedro’ rientrare la mattina seguente, completamente sbronzo e con una macchia inquietante sul retro dei pantaloni, ma si sa, i polacchi bevono molto …

Vado a vedere la cattedrale di Oliwa, a breve dustanza dal ostello, al suo interno ha uno degli organi piu’ grandi in Polonia, come al solito, non entro nelle chiese, la mia posizione e’ semplice, non ho rispetto per l’istituzione chiesa, per cui non entro dentro alcun edificio religioso, di qualsiasi religione, per intenderci, spero che chi mi legge sia contro la mafia e che non entrerebbe mai in una casa di un mafioso …

La cattedrale si trova in un bellissimo parco, peccato che deve essere la giornata delle ca..te, visto che mentre cammino tra gli alberi sento qualcosa sulla mia spalla. Si, uno dei tanti piccioni ha deciso di lasciarmi un ricordo … come odio la gente che gli da anche da mangiare!!!!

gdanskgaleoneNel pomeriggio incontro una ragazza a Gdansk, contattata tramite couchsurfing, Karolina, mi fa vedere il posto dove vive, anche se ultimamente ha vissuto in viaggio, lavorando in una nave da crociera.

Ci raccontiamo qualcosa delle nostre vite e trascorriamo un bel pomeriggio, mi fa vedere la zona dove solidarnosc e le proteste contro il regime comunista ebbero inizio, con Lech Walesa ed il suo discorso ai lavoratori polacchi. Il Road of FREEDOM.

Finiamo la serata in un tranquillo cafe, dove mangiamo una squisita torta alle mele. Ci salutiamo ed io continuo a girare per Gdansk, affascinato dai colori, dalla gente. Ritorno a visitare la riva del fiume Motlawa, le strade ciottolate, i bei palazzi e la suggestiva Mariacka, la via con le botteghe di ambra.

helIl giorno seguente vado a Hel! No, non sto imprecando, si tratta di un paesino alla fine di un lembo di terra a pochi km da Gdansk, una penisola strettissima, la percorro in treno. Da Gdansk a Gdynia, la terza delle citta’, da li prendo un regionale (gli IC contano troppo ed impiegano solo una decina di minuti in meno), andata e ritorno a meno di 10 euro. Il treno si riempie di persone che vanno in vacanza su questa penisola, piove e la vista non e’ delle migliori, ma posso apprezzare il viaggio, da una parte, la destra, vedo il mar baltico, mentre sulla sinistra una bella pineta e poi si intravede l’altra sponda del mare, il tutto saranno duecento metri di larghezza, davvero unico e suggestivo come luogo.

Ad HEL la pioggia si fa piu’ intensa, faccio in tempo a visitare la spiaggia dove hanno messo un focarium, le bancarelle che vendono oggetti e souvenir, il porticciolo e le brevi vie del centro, mi piacciono le abitazioni, molto tipiche. In una di queste adibita a ristorantino, mi fermo a mangiare qualcosa di caldo e ripararmi dal tempo infame. Ho il treno di ritorno in un paio d’ore, desisto dal fare un coast to coast, piove troppo e preferisco lasciarmi alle spalle qualche esperienza in sospeso, sono ottime scuse per ritornare in qualche posto.

Il treno si riempie subito, la pioggia ha consigliato i tanti alla scoperta di questo bel posto, di porsi al riparo. Mi rimane ancora un giorno da trascorrere sul mar baltico, sfortunatamente la pioggia sembra volermi fare compagnia ma nel pomeriggio della domenica il cielo si apre e lascia spazio ad un bel sole, vado in spiaggiaa trascorrere le ultime ore di questa bel tour nel nord della Polonia. Credo che ritornero’ da queste parti. Il mattino seguente mi rimetto in viaggio, verso …